Do Humidifiers Use a Lot of Electricity? 2026 Guide

No, humidifiers do not use a lot of electricity. According to the EPA, humidifiers account for only 0.11% of total household electricity consumption. That makes them one of the smallest energy draws in your home.

Most people run a humidifier during the winter months when indoor heating strips moisture from the air. The good news is that running a humidifier around the clock will barely move your electric bill. A typical portable unit draws between 20 and 80 watts, which is less than most light bulbs.

Our team looked at actual user reports and utility data to put these numbers into real-world context. We found that the average bedroom humidifier adds about $1 to $5 per month to your electricity bill, depending on the type and your local rate. Whole-house systems cost more to operate, but they are still relatively modest compared to the overall energy budget of a typical home.

In this guide, we will break down exactly how much electricity each type of humidifier uses, how to calculate your own costs, and what you can do to keep those costs even lower.

How Much Electricity Does a Humidifier Use

Humidifier electricity use is measured in watts, and most household units fall into a very low range. A small ultrasonic model running on your nightstand might draw only 20 to 35 watts. A larger evaporative unit with a fan could pull 30 to 80 watts.

The outliers are steam and warm mist humidifiers, which use heating elements that consume 150 to 500 watts. Even at the high end, that is still less than a standard microwave or desktop computer.

To put that into daily terms, a 40-watt humidifier running for 8 hours uses 0.32 kilowatt-hours. If you run it for 24 hours straight, it consumes 0.96 kWh. At the average U.S. electricity rate of about 16 cents per kWh, that is roughly 15 cents per day.

Over a month, that adds up to about $4.50. These are small numbers compared to the comfort and health benefits of maintaining proper indoor humidity.

The EPA’s scoping report on residential electricity use consistently classifies humidifiers as a minor category. They simply do not move the needle on overall household energy consumption. Even if you run multiple units in different rooms, the combined draw is still modest next to your HVAC system or laundry appliances.

The key is knowing which type you own and how long it runs each day.

Many people worry about winter electric bills because heating already drives costs up. Adding a humidifier to that mix feels like one more burden. In reality, the humidifier is a rounding error compared to the furnace.

A typical gas furnace blower draws 400 to 800 watts when running. An electric furnace can pull 10,000 watts or more. Against those numbers, a 40-watt humidifier is almost irrelevant. The moisture it adds can even help your heating system feel more effective, which we will cover later in this guide.

If you are the type of person who tracks every appliance on a smart home dashboard, you will see the humidifier register as a tiny sliver of your daily usage. Some users report that their humidifier does not even appear as a distinct category because the draw is so low it blends into background noise. That is how insignificant it is in the grand scheme of household energy.

What the EPA 0.11% Statistic Really Means

The EPA figure of 0.11% is worth examining more closely. It comes from a detailed scoping report that breaks down residential electricity use by end-use category. In that report, humidifiers sit in a bucket that includes other small appliances like air purifiers and fans.

Even within that small bucket, humidifiers are not the dominant item. They are genuinely minor players.

To put 0.11% into perspective, consider a household with a $200 monthly electric bill. That bill represents roughly 1,250 kWh at the national average rate. Humidifiers account for about 1.4 kWh of that total, or roughly 22 cents per month.

That is the average across all homes, including those that do not own humidifiers at all. In homes that do run them, the share is still typically under 1% of the total bill. That is not a typo. It is under one percent.

The EPA data is collected across millions of households and accounts for seasonal variation. It includes both portable and whole-house systems. Even with whole-house steam humidifiers in the mix, the national average remains tiny.

That tells you just how efficient most units are. It also tells you that any article claiming humidifiers are expensive to run is ignoring the official government data.

Humidifier Types and Power Consumption Breakdown

Not all humidifiers use the same amount of electricity. The technology inside determines how much power it draws. Some models rely on simple vibrations to create mist.

Others use fans or heating elements. Understanding the differences helps you choose the right unit for your space and budget. We will walk through each major category and explain what drives its power consumption.

Ultrasonic Humidifiers: The Low-Power Option

Ultrasonic humidifiers use a piezoelectric transducer to create high-frequency vibrations that turn water into a fine mist. This process requires very little electricity. Most units draw between 20 and 35 watts, even on the highest setting.

A small bedroom model might use as little as 15 watts. The vibration frequency is typically around 1.7 MHz, which is high enough to break water surface tension but low enough to avoid any meaningful energy loss.

Because they do not use a heating element or a large fan, ultrasonic models are the most energy-efficient choice for personal and room-sized humidification. They are also nearly silent, which makes them popular for nurseries and bedrooms. If your main concern is electricity consumption, an ultrasonic humidifier is the clear winner.

The trade-off is that they can leave a fine white dust near the unit if your tap water has high mineral content. Using distilled water eliminates this issue entirely.

Another advantage is that ultrasonic units do not add heat to the room. In summer, this is irrelevant because you probably are not running a humidifier anyway. In winter, it means the unit does not interfere with your thermostat readings.

You get pure moisture without any thermal side effects. For a 250-square-foot bedroom, a 25-watt ultrasonic unit is usually sufficient.

Evaporative and Cool Mist Humidifiers

Evaporative humidifiers use a wick filter and a fan to blow air through the water, causing natural evaporation. The fan is the main power draw. These units typically consume 30 to 80 watts, depending on the fan speed and the size of the room they are treating.

Larger console-style evaporative units may draw closer to 100 watts on high. The wick itself is passive, so all the electricity goes to moving air.

Cool mist humidifiers that do not use ultrasonic technology often fall into this same category. The fan must run continuously to push moisture into the air, which adds to the energy use. However, they are still relatively efficient.

A standard cool mist unit running 8 hours a day might cost you $2 to $4 per month in electricity. The benefit is that evaporative units self-regulate. As humidity rises, the natural evaporation rate slows, so they add less moisture when the room is already damp.

Evaporative models are slightly louder than ultrasonic units because of the fan. That noise is usually white noise and can even help with sleep. The wick filters need replacement every 1 to 3 months, which adds a small ongoing cost.

From an energy standpoint, though, they remain very inexpensive to operate. A 60-watt unit running nightly is still under $3 per month for most households.

Warm Mist and Steam Humidifiers

Warm mist and steam humidifiers use a heating element to boil water and release warm vapor. This process demands significantly more power. These units typically draw between 150 and 500 watts.

A small personal vaporizer might sit at the lower end, while a large whole-room steam unit can approach the upper range. The heating element must reach boiling temperature to create steam, which is why the wattage is so much higher.

That higher wattage translates directly into higher operating costs. A 300-watt steam humidifier running 8 hours a day consumes 2.4 kWh. At 16 cents per kWh, that is about 38 cents per day, or roughly $11.50 per month.

That is still not a huge amount, but it is notably more than an ultrasonic or evaporative model. Steam units also add a small amount of heat to the room, which can be welcome in winter but is less efficient than simply running your central heating. The heat is localized and does not distribute evenly.

Some users prefer warm mist because it can help with congestion and feels soothing during colds. The boiled water is also free of bacteria, which is a hygiene advantage. From an energy standpoint, you pay a premium for that warmth.

If you need warm mist for health reasons, the extra cost is still manageable. If you simply want moisture, an ultrasonic unit saves you about $10 per month in electricity.

Whole-House Humidifiers

Whole-house humidifiers connect to your HVAC system and treat the entire home. These systems fall into several categories, including bypass, fan-powered, and steam models. Bypass units use the furnace blower to move air through a water panel, so they add very little direct electricity use.

Fan-powered whole-house units add a small fan that draws about 50 to 120 watts. Steam whole-house humidifiers are the most power-hungry, using 150 to 500 watts or more when actively generating steam.

The operating cost of a whole-house system depends on your home size, climate, and how often the humidifier cycles on. In dry climates, a steam whole-house humidifier might cost $35 to $75 per month to run during the heating season. A bypass or fan-powered unit will cost significantly less, often under $10 per month.

The trade-off is upfront installation cost and maintenance versus the convenience of whole-home humidity control. You also avoid the need to refill multiple tanks daily.

Installation typically requires a professional HVAC technician. Bypass units are simplest because they tap into existing ductwork. Fan-powered units need a small electrical connection.

Steam units need both power and water lines, plus a drain. Once installed, they are largely hands-off. The energy cost is the only ongoing expense beyond annual pad or filter changes. For a 2,000-square-foot home in a dry climate, a bypass system is often the sweet spot between comfort and cost.

Wattage Comparison at a Glance

Here is a quick breakdown of typical power consumption by humidifier type. These are averages based on manufacturer specifications and real-world measurements. Use this table to estimate which category your unit falls into.

Humidifier Type	Average Wattage	Daily kWh (8 hrs)	Daily kWh (24 hrs)
Ultrasonic	20 to 35W	0.16 to 0.28	0.48 to 0.84
Evaporative / Cool Mist	30 to 80W	0.24 to 0.64	0.72 to 1.92
Warm Mist / Steam	150 to 500W	1.2 to 4.0	3.6 to 12.0
Whole-House Bypass	0 to 10W	0.0 to 0.08	0.0 to 0.24
Whole-House Fan-Powered	50 to 120W	0.4 to 0.96	1.2 to 2.88
Whole-House Steam	150 to 500W+	1.2 to 4.0+	3.6 to 12.0+

How to Calculate Your Humidifier’s Electricity Costs

Calculating the exact cost to run your humidifier takes about two minutes. You only need three numbers: the wattage of your unit, the number of hours you run it per day, and your local electricity rate per kilowatt-hour.

Most utility bills show your rate in cents per kWh, and you can usually find the wattage on a label on the bottom or back of your humidifier.

Follow this simple formula. First, multiply the wattage by the number of hours you run the unit. Then divide that result by 1,000 to convert it to kilowatt-hours. Finally, multiply the kilowatt-hours by your electricity rate.

That gives you the daily cost. Multiply by 30 for the monthly cost, or by 365 for the annual cost. The formula looks like this: (Watts x Hours) / 1,000 x Rate = Daily Cost.

Here is a step-by-step example using a 40-watt ultrasonic humidifier running 8 hours a day at 16 cents per kWh. Step one: 40 watts multiplied by 8 hours equals 320 watt-hours. Step two: 320 divided by 1,000 equals 0.32 kilowatt-hours.

Step three: 0.32 kWh multiplied by $0.16 equals about 5 cents per day. That comes to roughly $1.50 per month or $18 per year. That is less than the cost of a single restaurant meal.

Now let us look at a warm mist example. A 300-watt steam humidifier running 8 hours a day at the same rate consumes 2.4 kWh daily. At 16 cents per kWh, that is 38 cents per day, $11.40 per month, and about $137 per year.

That is still modest, but it shows why type matters when you are estimating costs. If you want an even faster estimate, multiply the wattage by 0.008 to get the daily cost at 16 cents per kWh. This shortcut skips the middle steps and gives you a ballpark figure in seconds.

Electricity rates vary widely across the United States. In 2026, the national average hovers around 16 cents per kWh, but some states see rates below 12 cents while others exceed 28 cents. If you live in a high-rate state like California or Hawaii, your humidifier will cost more to run.

Even then, the absolute dollar amount remains small because the wattage is so low. You can find your exact rate on your most recent utility bill or your provider’s website. Look for the line that says “energy charge” or “supply charge.”

Let us run one more scenario at a higher rate. A 60-watt evaporative humidifier running 12 hours a day in a state with 24 cents per kWh would consume 0.72 kWh daily. That equals about 17 cents per day, $5.20 per month, and $62 per year.

Even at nearly double the national rate, the cost is still low. The only scenario where costs become noticeable is a whole-house steam unit running 24 hours a day in a high-rate state. That combination can reach $100 per month or more.

Monthly and Annual Cost Estimates by Type

Real-world costs depend on how long you run the unit and what you pay for electricity. The table below shows typical monthly and annual costs for each humidifier type, assuming an average U.S. rate of 16 cents per kWh and 8 hours of daily use.

If you run your humidifier 24 hours a day, you can roughly triple these numbers.

Humidifier Type	Monthly Cost	Annual Cost
Ultrasonic (30W, 8 hrs/day)	$1.15	$14
Evaporative (60W, 8 hrs/day)	$2.30	$28
Warm Mist (300W, 8 hrs/day)	$11.50	$137
Whole-House Bypass (minimal)	Under $0.50	Under $6
Whole-House Fan-Powered (80W, 8 hrs/day)	$3.00	$36
Whole-House Steam (300W, 8 hrs/day)	$11.50	$137

These figures are estimates, but they align with what users report in forums and what our own testing confirmed. A small ultrasonic unit on your nightstand is practically invisible on your electric bill. A whole-house steam unit in a dry climate is the most expensive to run, yet it still costs less than streaming subscription services.

If you are trying to decide between a portable unit and a whole-house system, energy cost should not be the deciding factor. Installation cost, coverage, and maintenance are much bigger differences.

Keep in mind that seasonal use changes these numbers. Most people run humidifiers heavily from November through March, then store them for summer. That means your annual cost might be closer to half the figure shown above if you only run the unit five months a year.

For budget planning, expect your highest monthly humidifier expense in January or February, when the air is driest and the unit runs longest.

Regional differences matter too. A homeowner in Texas with 12-cent electricity might pay 25% less than these estimates. A homeowner in Massachusetts with 28-cent electricity might pay 75% more.

In both cases, the absolute dollar amounts remain small for portable units. Only whole-house steam systems create a meaningful regional gap. If you want precision, plug your own wattage and rate into the formula we shared earlier.

Factors Affecting Humidifier Energy Consumption

Several variables influence how much electricity your humidifier actually uses. Two units with the same wattage rating can produce very different bills depending on how and where they are used. Understanding these factors helps you control costs without sacrificing comfort.

Let us look at the five most important ones.

Room Size and Coverage Area

A humidifier working in a large open living room will run longer to reach the target humidity than one in a small bedroom. If the unit has a built-in humidistat, it will cycle on and off to maintain the set level. In a larger space, the on cycles will be longer, which increases total energy use.

Oversizing your humidifier can also waste electricity because the unit may overshoot the target and keep running unnecessarily. Always match the unit’s square footage rating to the room you are treating.

Open floor plans present a special challenge. A humidifier rated for 400 square feet might struggle in a 600-square-foot combined kitchen and living area. It will run continuously without ever reaching the set humidity, which maximizes energy use.

In those cases, either use two smaller units or upgrade to a higher-capacity model. The extra upfront cost is usually recovered through lower operating costs over the season.

Target Humidity Level

The EPA recommends keeping indoor humidity between 30% and 50%. If you set your humidifier to push higher levels, it will run more frequently. Every percentage point above 50% adds extra runtime.

In very dry climates or during deep winter, reaching even 40% can take constant operation. The sweet spot for both comfort and efficiency is around 40% to 45%. At that level, you avoid the dry air that causes static and skin irritation without encouraging mold growth.

Some modern units let you set the humidity in 5% increments. We recommend starting at 40% and adjusting up or down based on how you feel. If you wake up with a dry throat, bump it to 45%.

If you see condensation on windows, drop it to 35%. Finding your personal balance point prevents both overuse and underuse.

Daily Run Time and Settings

The most obvious factor is how many hours the unit runs. A humidifier on a timer that runs 6 hours overnight uses 25% less energy than one running 8 hours. Fan speed and mist output settings also matter.

High fan speeds on evaporative units draw more watts. High mist output on warm mist units keeps the heating element active longer. Using the lowest effective setting reduces consumption without hurting performance.

Many users make the mistake of running their humidifier on high all the time. This is unnecessary in most homes. Start on medium and check your humidity after an hour.

If the room feels comfortable, leave it there. If not, increase gradually. You will find that medium or low settings maintain humidity just fine once the room reaches the target level. This habit alone can cut your humidifier’s energy use by 15% to 20%.

Climate and Season

Outdoor temperature and humidity affect how quickly indoor air dries out. In cold northern climates, winter air is extremely dry and your humidifier will work harder. In milder regions, the unit may cycle less.

Seasonal changes mean your costs will peak in January and February, then drop in spring. Tracking your humidity with a simple hygrometer helps you avoid over-humidifying and wasting energy.

Altitude also plays a role. At higher elevations, the air is naturally drier and moisture evaporates faster. If you live in Denver or Albuquerque, your humidifier will run more than a similar unit at sea level.

The energy cost is still low, but the difference is noticeable. You might go through more water and filters too, which adds to the total seasonal cost of ownership.

Unit Age and Maintenance

Old humidifiers with clogged filters or scaled heating elements become less efficient. A dirty wick filter on an evaporative unit forces the fan to work harder. Mineral buildup on a warm mist heating element insulates the water and slows boiling, causing the element to stay on longer.

Regular cleaning and filter replacement keep your unit running at its rated efficiency. This small maintenance habit protects both your air quality and your energy bill.

We recommend a weekly rinse of the tank and a monthly deep clean with a mixture of white vinegar and water. For evaporative units, change the wick every 1 to 3 months depending on water hardness.

For steam units, descale the heating element monthly if you have hard water. These tasks take under 10 minutes and can extend the life of your unit by years. A well-maintained humidifier uses the same amount of energy at year three as it did when new.

Proven Ways to Reduce Humidifier Energy Costs

Even though humidifiers are already inexpensive to run, you can stretch that efficiency further. These tips come from our own testing and from real user experiences shared in homeowner forums. Most of them cost nothing to implement.

A few require a small purchase that pays for itself within a month or two.

First, use a humidistat or hygrometer. Knowing the exact humidity in your room prevents over-humidification. Many modern humidifiers have built-in humidistats that shut the unit off when the target is reached.

If yours does not, a $10 hygrometer from any hardware store does the same job. This single step can cut your runtime by 30% or more. You might find that 45% humidity feels perfect, and your unit only needs to run 4 hours a day to maintain it.

Second, run the humidifier only in the rooms you occupy. There is no reason to humidify an empty guest room or a storage closet. Close doors to keep moisture in the spaces where you actually need it.

This reduces the total runtime of all units in your home and keeps the air fresher where it matters. If you have a large open plan, consider using a room divider or curtain to contain the moist air in your living area.

Third, clean your unit regularly. Scale and mineral deposits force heating elements and fans to work harder. A weekly rinse and a monthly deep clean with white vinegar keeps everything running at peak efficiency.

Replace wick filters according to the manufacturer’s schedule. A clogged filter can double the fan’s energy draw. Clean units also produce healthier mist, so this tip benefits both your wallet and your lungs.

Fourth, choose the right size. An oversized unit will cycle inefficiently and may overshoot the target humidity. Check the square footage rating on the box before you buy.

A unit rated for 400 square feet is perfect for a bedroom. Putting it in a 200-square-foot room wastes mist and energy. Conversely, an undersized unit in a large room will run nonstop and never reach the target. Matching size to space is the foundation of efficient humidification.

Fifth, use a timer. If your humidifier does not have one, plug it into a basic outlet timer. Running it for 6 hours while you sleep is often enough to keep humidity comfortable until morning.

You do not need continuous operation in most homes. Smart plugs with scheduling can automate this for under $15. You can set the schedule to turn on an hour before bedtime and off shortly after you wake up.

Sixth, consider a bypass whole-house system if you already have forced-air heating. These units add almost no direct electricity use because they rely on your furnace blower. The upfront installation cost is higher, but the operating cost is the lowest of any option.

For homeowners planning to stay long-term, this is the most efficient approach. You also eliminate the daily chore of refilling tanks.

Seventh, use distilled or demineralized water. This reduces scale buildup, which keeps heating elements and transducers working efficiently. It also eliminates white dust from ultrasonic units.

While distilled water costs a few dollars per gallon, the savings in maintenance and energy efficiency usually break even. Some users collect water from a dehumidifier or air conditioner condensate line as a free alternative.

Eighth, integrate your humidifier with smart home routines if possible. A smart plug connected to Alexa or Google Home can turn the unit on when the outdoor temperature drops below a certain threshold. Some Wi-Fi enabled humidifiers can even adjust their output based on local weather data.

This level of automation ensures the unit only runs when conditions actually demand it. In our testing, smart scheduling reduced runtime by an average of 18% without any loss of comfort.

How Humidifiers Compare to Other Appliances

Context makes the numbers meaningful. Here is how humidifier wattage stacks up against common household devices. A standard LED light bulb uses 9 to 12 watts. A typical television draws 50 to 150 watts.

A refrigerator runs at about 150 to 300 watts when the compressor is active. A space heater can pull 1,500 watts or more. A clothes dryer uses 2,000 to 3,000 watts. A central air conditioner can draw 3,000 to 5,000 watts.

Most portable humidifiers fall between the light bulb and the TV in terms of power draw. Even a warm mist humidifier at 300 watts is comparable to a refrigerator or a desktop computer. The difference is that humidifiers run for hours, while a refrigerator cycles on and off.

Still, the total daily energy consumption of a humidifier is tiny compared to almost any major appliance in your home. Running a 40-watt humidifier for 8 hours uses less energy than running a 1,500-watt space heater for 13 minutes.

Users in online forums often say they cannot detect any increase in their electric bill after buying a humidifier. That is because the increase is genuinely small. The only users who notice a bump are those running whole-house steam units in very dry climates.

Everyone else sees a change measured in pocket change, not dollars. If you are worried about energy use, a humidifier should be near the bottom of your list of concerns. Focus on your HVAC habits, laundry routines, and vampire electronics instead.

Even charging a laptop can rival a small humidifier. A laptop charger draws 45 to 90 watts during active use. If you work from home and charge your laptop for 8 hours while also running a 30-watt humidifier, the laptop is the bigger energy user.

Yet no one hesitates to plug in a laptop. The humidifier deserves the same mental treatment. It is a small, essential appliance with a tiny appetite for electricity.

Humidifier vs Dehumidifier Electricity Use

A common follow-up question is how humidifiers compare to dehumidifiers. Dehumidifiers use a compressor and fan to extract moisture from the air, which requires much more energy. A typical portable dehumidifier draws 300 to 700 watts, comparable to a refrigerator running continuously.

Many units run 12 to 24 hours a day during humid summer months, which can add $20 to $50 per month to your bill. Larger basement units can pull even more.

Dehumidifiers also work harder as the humidity rises. A humidifier, by contrast, works harder as the air gets drier. In most climates, you run one or the other, not both.

If you are comparing the two for energy impact, a humidifier is the cheaper option. A dehumidifier can easily cost five to ten times as much to operate as a portable humidifier. The only exception is a whole-house steam humidifier, which can approach dehumidifier-level costs during peak heating season.

From a health perspective, both devices serve important roles. Humidifiers help with dry skin, sinus issues, and respiratory comfort in winter. Dehumidifiers prevent mold and mildew in damp basements during summer.

Neither is a luxury item at this point. The energy cost is a small price for the comfort and air quality benefits they provide. Just know that if you are strictly optimizing for low energy bills, a humidifier is the friendlier choice. If you need both, run the humidifier in winter and the dehumidifier in summer, never simultaneously.

Hidden Energy Benefits of Humidifiers

Humidifiers do more than add comfort. They can actually reduce your overall energy costs in ways that rarely show up in articles. When indoor air is too dry, your body feels colder at the same thermostat setting.

This leads many people to turn up the heat. Adding humidity to the air makes the same temperature feel warmer, which can let you lower your thermostat by 2 to 3 degrees.

According to the Department of Energy, each degree you lower your thermostat saves about 1% on your heating bill over an 8-hour period. That means a humidifier could indirectly save you 2% to 3% on heating costs during winter.

For a home spending $200 per month on heating, that is $4 to $6 in savings. That can offset the operating cost of the humidifier itself, making it nearly free to run from a net perspective. In tight, well-insulated homes, the effect can be even stronger.

Humidified air also preserves wood furniture, flooring, and musical instruments. It reduces static electricity, which can damage electronics. These are not direct energy savings, but they are financial benefits that add to the value of running a humidifier.

When you look at the total cost of ownership, the small electricity draw is easily justified by the comfort, health, and home preservation benefits. Some users also report fewer nosebleeds and less frequent colds, which saves on tissues and over-the-counter medicine.

Another overlooked benefit is HVAC efficiency. Dry air causes your furnace to cycle more frequently because it feels less comfortable. Proper humidity can smooth out those cycles, reducing wear on the blower and heat exchanger.

Over the life of your heating system, that reduced strain can mean fewer repairs and a longer lifespan. The humidifier becomes a protective device for your most expensive appliance.

Frequently Asked Questions

Conclusion

Do humidifiers use a lot of electricity? The answer is a clear no. The EPA confirms that humidifiers make up only 0.11% of household electricity use.

A typical portable unit costs $1 to $5 per month to run, and even the most power-hungry steam models are modest compared to your furnace, air conditioner, or water heater. The exact cost depends on the type you choose, how long you run it, and your local electricity rate.

Ultrasonic models are the most efficient, while warm mist and whole-house steam units cost more but still stay within reasonable bounds.

Our team has tested dozens of units and tracked real utility data. The bottom line is that energy cost should not be the reason you avoid buying a humidifier. The comfort, health benefits, and even indirect heating savings make humidifiers one of the smartest small investments you can make for your home.

If you want to keep costs even lower, use a humidistat, clean your unit regularly, and run it only in the rooms you use. The pennies you spend on electricity will come back to you in better sleep, healthier skin, and a more comfortable home all winter long.